LEJOG day 12: Tracebridge to Taunton
It rained almost constantly from Saturday night until Monday morning in this part of Somerset. Emma and I visited Knightshayes Court- a National Trust property with exquisite gardens- and managed about ten minutes outside in between downpours. Once we got back to the cottage, the heavens really opened, and I spent last night listening to the rain on the roof and thinking about the many miles of footpaths I had to navigate today, all of them in unknown states of disrepair- except the one I knew was impassable, thanks to Maren and Arne.
Emma, however, is made of stern stuff and refused to let me in the cab to come back to London with her, so really I had no choice but to set off on foot, and given my planned routes take me to John O'Groats rather than London or my parents' house, I may as well go there.
By the time I'd kitted myself up in waterproof coat and trousers and gaiters, the rain had stopped, and having slightly altered the route to stay on the roads until after the Infamous Footpath, by the time I got to the off-road section I found the ground was mostly wet packed earth, rather than the quagmire I was fearing. It's been a dry winter so the fields are all so parched it seems it will take more than 24 hours of rain to create mud. I'm glad, but I don't know what the farmers think.
Happily, the paths I'd picked were almost all easy- one "public bypass" was rather overgrown and the grass and nettles hid the puddles until I stepped in them- and I spent the day walking along the path of the Grand Western Canal again, with a bit of the river Tone thrown in for good measure. I had a detour of nearly a mile and a half to get lunch, because the riverside pub is closed for Monday lunchtime and apparently saw no reason to alter this policy for the Bank holiday. But I took some photos on the way, so that was ok!
The only sad thing was I arrived at the Museum of Somerset, which was new in 2011 and is housed in a castle and looked very slick, plus has free admission, at 3:30- in plenty of time to have a bit of a look around and with only 3 miles or so to go- and just couldn't summon the will to do so. Even though today was quite short (or was meant to be, before the pub-detour), by about an hour or so after lunch I can't really face the thought of doing anything that will postpone taking off my walking boots and putting on clean clothes.
Distance walked: 18.1miles
Time taken: 5h16
Percentage completed: 16.9%
Boot cost per mile: £0.40
Lunch: lamb skewers with pitta and salad- not really enough but delicious; I had an apple later
Last night's B&B: Tracebridge Cottage: another 6/5 stars- wonderful hostess who really couldn't do enough for us- making for a wonderfully pampering and relaxed stay! Glorious breakfasts, great selection of films in a very cosy guest lounge, and she made an excellent risotto and panna cotta for dinner one night, too. Worth every penny!
A Burges bedroom at Knightshayes. The guy apparently had a bit of an opium habit, which may explain the dodo
Knightshayes Court
Terribly artsy, my photos
When I'm a proper grown-up, I want a house with a bit that overhangs the porch with a windowseat in it
I took this from a bridge that used to carry the canal over...whatever used to run through this tunnel?
Barge lifts on the remains of the canal- because the ascent was too steep for even a staircase of locks
A stranger's house!
Wisteria and thatch
Stocks! in a churchyard! with no explanation or information board! It honestly looked they'd hung onto them in case they come back into fashion, like flares in the 70s but with more torturous overtones
No idea what this was but it smelt nice and I liked that it had flowers and berries on the bush at the same time
A bridge!
Another bridge!
A (terrible photo of a) castle!
Emma, however, is made of stern stuff and refused to let me in the cab to come back to London with her, so really I had no choice but to set off on foot, and given my planned routes take me to John O'Groats rather than London or my parents' house, I may as well go there.
By the time I'd kitted myself up in waterproof coat and trousers and gaiters, the rain had stopped, and having slightly altered the route to stay on the roads until after the Infamous Footpath, by the time I got to the off-road section I found the ground was mostly wet packed earth, rather than the quagmire I was fearing. It's been a dry winter so the fields are all so parched it seems it will take more than 24 hours of rain to create mud. I'm glad, but I don't know what the farmers think.
Happily, the paths I'd picked were almost all easy- one "public bypass" was rather overgrown and the grass and nettles hid the puddles until I stepped in them- and I spent the day walking along the path of the Grand Western Canal again, with a bit of the river Tone thrown in for good measure. I had a detour of nearly a mile and a half to get lunch, because the riverside pub is closed for Monday lunchtime and apparently saw no reason to alter this policy for the Bank holiday. But I took some photos on the way, so that was ok!
The only sad thing was I arrived at the Museum of Somerset, which was new in 2011 and is housed in a castle and looked very slick, plus has free admission, at 3:30- in plenty of time to have a bit of a look around and with only 3 miles or so to go- and just couldn't summon the will to do so. Even though today was quite short (or was meant to be, before the pub-detour), by about an hour or so after lunch I can't really face the thought of doing anything that will postpone taking off my walking boots and putting on clean clothes.
Distance walked: 18.1miles
Time taken: 5h16
Percentage completed: 16.9%
Boot cost per mile: £0.40
Lunch: lamb skewers with pitta and salad- not really enough but delicious; I had an apple later
Last night's B&B: Tracebridge Cottage: another 6/5 stars- wonderful hostess who really couldn't do enough for us- making for a wonderfully pampering and relaxed stay! Glorious breakfasts, great selection of films in a very cosy guest lounge, and she made an excellent risotto and panna cotta for dinner one night, too. Worth every penny!
After a really terrible long walk of 35 km, we had a lovely day with signposted!!! ways today. Sending greetings from Glastonbury. The Tor is magnificent. What a view.
ReplyDeleteWhere did you find these signposted ways?! I have just had a horrendous day going from Taunton to Street (a bit South of Glastonbury) with absent footpaths, alarming cows and lots of nettles!
DeleteAbout to walk from Yeoford to Taunton this week and wondering where is the impassable trail Maren and Arne mentioned to you? Those rains in Sunday and Monday were something else! I was on the Two Cadtles trail. Cheers, Catherine
ReplyDeleteIt's the West Deane Way between Cothay manor and Higher Wellisford. We went round on the road via Thorne St Margaret.
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